Since I'm rediscovering wet shaving, I'd like to offer some tips for fellow newbies on choosing shaving products.
In the USSR, at best, people would use toilet soap and use a shaving brush to lather it up. I decided that I could just get by with regular soap, but after two bars of lathered soap, I realized that this couldn't continue – modern soap clearly doesn't have the same glide as Soviet soap. Plus, the constant irritation was just plain annoying. I tried different types of soap, even Syrian soap, but shaving was pure torture for my skin.
Arko Men Sensitive Cream
I saw the Turkish Arko Men Sensitive cream at a reasonable price in the store. I decided to give it a try. It took a while, but I managed to get a good lather in the bowl, and the glide was simply amazing.
Even though the tube is only 65 grams, it lasts a long time, definitely a month. Only half a centimeter of cream is enough to shave my face and head.
It is important to understand that this is, so to speak, liquid soap, not shaving gel, and it must be lathered with a brush in a bowl or on the face.
Мыло BlueZoo Sandalwood
Arko shaving cream is good, but after shaving my head and face for a long time, it starts to sting, which I didn't like. I decided to look for a solution in shaving soaps and, after checking prices, I bought an inexpensive Chinese soap from Ozon to start.
The BlueZoo Sandalwood soap box lists not only the ingredients but also the directions for use.
INGREDIENTS: SODIUM PALMATE, SODIUM PALM KERNEL, SUCROSE, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, WATER, GLYCEROL, TREHALOSE, SHEA BUTTER (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII), OLEIA EUROPEANIUM SEED OIL, ALLANTOIN, VARIOUS FRAGRANCES, ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE, GLYCYRRHIZA URALENSIS ROOT EXTRACT, CI 19140, SANTALUM ALBUM TREE EXTRACT.
FEATURES: 1: An excellent and effective product for facial care and wet shaving for men. 2. The soap forms a rich, thick lather that lasts a long time and does not dry out the skin. 3. Rich in the following nutrients: olive oil, shea butter, glycerin, etc., it well moisturizes and softens the skin during shaving, providing a comfortable feeling without cuts and scratches, making the shaving process easier. 4: Specially added licorice extract and allantoin; the active ingredients quickly penetrate the skin and smooth it. 5. Easy to store and convenient to use.
APPLICATION: Apply to damp skin with a brush and lather. Also suitable for cleansing the face and beard.
NOTICE: 1. Do not eat the soap. 2. The product has been professionally tested. If you are allergic to this product, please stop using it and consult a doctor if necessary.
STORAGE CONDITIONS: Store in a cool, dry place, out of reach of children.
MADE IN CHINA. 100% VEGAN.
As can be seen from the description, the core of the soap is palm oil with the addition of other oils.
The soap comes in a high-quality, thick aluminum tin, a rarity even for expensive European and American soaps. The tin is perfect for reuse, for example, for loose soap or for dividing expensive soap into several portions for storage.
The sticker on the bottom of the can repeats all the information that is on the box.
The soap is solid, so there is no production date or expiration date on the jar, as it can be stored indefinitely in dry conditions.
The consistency is similar to candle paraffin, but it is harder.
Because BlueZoo Sandalwood soap is solid, it's extremely economical to use. This does have its downsides: it takes a long time to fill the badger brush with concentrate. Before shaving, you need to moisten the soap with a few drops to soften it slightly.
The soap's glide isn't exceptional, but it's good. The scent is subtle, but it should be subtle enough to not overpower your perfume.
AMBBAS soap
By the way, Chinese soaps, especially those of animal origin, are quite expensive and comparable in price to European and American handmade soaps.
The photo shows goat's milk soap. It has a subtle milky scent. It has the consistency of candle paraffin, so it also has no expiration date. I haven't used it yet, so I can't comment on the shaving quality.
Proraso red soap
Proraso is probably the first and most widely used soap among classic shaving enthusiasts. There are red, white, and green lines of pre-shave, pre-shave, and post-shave products, each with a different skin type and scent: Green (classic, menthol and eucalyptus, for normal/all skin, refreshing), Red (sandalwood, for dry/coarse beard, nourishing), and White (oatmeal and green tea, for sensitive skin, soothing, citrus scent).
At first, I tried to unscrew the lid from the jar, but it just pops off upward. Why am I mentioning this? Because the lid is tricky—it has an air gap that prevents the soap from becoming soggy, but it also prevents the soap from drying out completely, otherwise it loses its properties, becomes hard, and cracks.
Despite the fact that the soap belongs to the mass market segment and is inexpensive, it has a rich composition and serves as a kind of standard for testing the aggressiveness of razors.
Because the soap is semi-solid, it has a production date on the label. Despite this, this doesn't prevent soap from being produced in 2013 from being sold in Russia in 2025.
It's a great soap, but you shouldn't leave it on your body for too long—it starts to sting. Three shave passes on your face is the maximum amount of time, and then you need to rinse it off thoroughly.
The aroma is denser and more interesting than that of Chinese soap, but it disappears after rinsing with water.
M.O.W. Sailor
I finally decided to buy some handmade shaving soap. At the time of purchase, M.O.W. soap cost the same as Proraso soap. Since you need to alternate the soaps to keep them from becoming soggy, losing their properties, and allowing them to dry properly, you need to have at least two jars of soap on hand, and preferably three.
I chose Tabachok soap based on the reviews and ingredients; I also love the Tom Ford Tobacco and Vanilla scent, which is the inspiration for the Tabachok soap.
The core of the soap is one of the most successful Troika formulas, created from the finest farm-sourced ingredients.
Ingredients: Stearic acid, beef tallow, coconut oil, water, potassium hydroxide, cocoa butter, glycerin, shea butter, sodium hydroxide, goose fat, refined mink oil, maltodextrin, corn syrup, lanolin, grape seed oil, sodium citrate, sodium lactate, macadamia oil, fragrance, castor oil, vitamin E, hydroxyethylcellulose.
The use of beef and goose fat, as well as mink oil, was the deciding factor in our selection. These ingredients not only provide the sensation of natural, classic soap but also nourish the skin.
Since soap is made from animal fats and is semi-solid, there are limitations to its shelf life. Here's what soap maker Yuri from Yessentuki himself writes:
The basic oil bases (7even, 10ka, 45ka) don't require any special storage conditions. When scooping soap from a jar with a brush, it's recommended to let it dry for no more than 24 hours, leaving the lid off. The shelf life is stated as one year, but this is purely a precaution; the actual shelf life is the same as the skin care oils: approximately 2 years under normal conditions, 3 years when stored in the refrigerator (but never in the freezer!).
I can add to this that if you start using a jar of fatty soap, it is better to use it up within a year, since no animal fat in any condition can be stored indefinitely - it loses its properties and begins to smell unpleasant.
One option for preserving the soap is to transfer 1 / 3 or half into another jar and put the original in the refrigerator.
The jar is convenient and large, so the stated 170 grams of soap takes up half the jar, which is convenient - when you take out the soap, foam will not escape from the jar.
The approximate weight of a can of soap is approximately 220 grams.
With the recommended dose of one teaspoon of soap, you get enough foam to cover your face and head, and still have some left over.
If you take half a teaspoon and rub it in a bowl, then after use there will still be some soap left, even when using a synthetic shaving brush.
The first time I used it, I was a bit shocked - the shave was so comfortable and pleasant.
At first, the scent from the jar seemed a bit weak to me - it smelled of soap and perfume, but after whipping, the soap acquired a wonderful aroma, reminiscent of the warm aroma of Tobacco and Vanilla from TF.
KATRINEDO
On the same day I posted the article, another soap arrived from the well-known Russian manufacturer, KATRINEDO.
It's worth noting the completely different design and presentation of KATRINEDO from, for example, M.O.W. - it's more formal, with a sophisticated aesthetic. The design was probably done by a designer.
The stated soap content per jar is 170 grams. Unlike European and American artisanal tobacco products, whose jars are getting smaller and smaller every year, Russian ones are getting nicer – the jar isn't small, and its weight commands respect (weight matters :-) ).
The directions for use are written in an excellent, easy-to-read font. soap.
Composition:
Potassium Tallowate, Sodium Tallowate, Water, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Stearate, Potassium Shea Butterate, Sodium Shea Butterate, Potassium Cocoate, Sodium Cocoate, Sorbitol, Propylene Glycol, Fragrance, Glycerin, Corn Oil, Vitis Vinifera(Grape) Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Citrate, Lanolin, Polyquaternium-7, Tocopherol, EDTA.
The shelf life on the label is 24 months.
The same label also lists a 12-month expiration date.
In any case, it's best to use fatty soap within one year of opening the jar.
The manufacturer claims:
KATRINEDO TOBACCO VANILLE shaving soap is the ideal product for those who value impeccable skin care while shaving. This unique formula is designed specifically for classic wet shaving, including with a straight razor and a flat razor. The scent is inspired by a famous perfume, making shaving not only effective but also enjoyable. A warming, enticing blend of tobacco leaves, spices, cocoa, tonka bean, tobacco blossom, dried fruit, wood, and luxurious vanilla. Perfect for cold weather! Weighing 170 grams, this soap provides a thick, rich lather, promoting easy, smooth razor glide and reducing the risk of nicks and irritation. The unique Artisan base on which it is based is gentle on the skin, moisturizing and nourishing it, which is especially important for sensitive skin.
Contains only proven, safe ingredients to provide comfort and silky smoothness after every use. KATRINEDO shaving soap quickly transforms into a thick, rich lather, ensuring a perfect shave and superior results. This product will become an indispensable part of your daily hygiene routine, making shaving an easy and enjoyable ritual. Using this soap will help reduce skin irritation after shaving and leave your skin feeling fresh and clean thanks to its natural ingredients. You'll appreciate its caring properties, which surpass those of regular shaving foams and other similar products. Treat yourself or your loved ones to care and comfort with KATRINEDO TOBACCO VANILLE shaving soap.
This soap is formulated with animal and vegetable fats. The exact animal fats are not specified, but the ingredients also include grape seed oil and sweet almond oil.
Potassium tallowate, sodium tallowate, water, potassium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium shea butter, sodium shea butter, potassium cocoate, sodium cocoate, sorbitol, propylene glycol, fragrance, glycerin, corn oil, grape seed oil (Vitis Vinifera), ricinus communis seed oil, sodium lactate, sodium citrate, lanolin, polyquaternium-7, tocopherol, EDTA.
I can't comment on the scent, as I use Tobacco and Vanilla perfume and my nose is already tired of this scent. But most importantly, there is no suffocating hint of laundry soap, like some artisanal products.
Despite all the positive aspects of this soap, I couldn't get it to lather the first time. I spent half an hour using the shaving brush like a cement mixer, adding water, then soap, then water again, but the soap still wouldn't lather. I saw a video on YouTube about a famous blogger failing to lather his expensive, world-famous handmade soap. The same thing sometimes happens to me with my Tobacco soap. I'm not sure why.
It's too early to draw conclusions, and I'll be working on achieving excellent results, but even with this product, I was able to shave my face. True, I took a teaspoon of soap and expected to shave my face and head, but what happened, happened.
It's important to understand that every skin type requires its own soap, so you'll have to spend extra money initially to find your perfect scent and soap. Fortunately, shaving soap is very economical, so it will last you a long time.
One way to store soap while rotating:
Rinse the soap jar with cold water to remove any foam. Turn the soap jar upside down and rest the rim of the jar on its lid. Once the moisture has drained and the soap has dried, you can close the lid.
Also, don't forget that a person is simply a vessel for bacteria, viruses, and fungi, so the soap may not be suitable for you and irritation may occur. In this case, you need to change it and avoid causing an allergy.
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